VANUATU
Vanuatu is a destination that earns itself. Active volcanoes, turquoise blue holes, white sand beaches, and one of the best wreck dives in the world.
But it comes with real constraints: unreliable flights, limited accommodation, and costs that add up quickly. You need to go flexible with a good tolerance for the unexpected. If that’s you, it’s unforgettable.
We went in early August, theoretically the best season, and it still rained a lot. It’s a tropical island, it rains. Factor that in.
✈️ Getting Around
By flight
Air Vanuatu is the main way to travel between islands. There is usually only one flight per day to each destination, and flights are often operated on small planes, so seats can fill up quickly.
Delays and cancellations are common, so leave some buffer days in your itinerary, especially before an international flight. They recommend arriving 2 hours before departure, but 1h15 is usually enough.
Domestic flights have a 200 VT airport tax, payable in cash.
There are no direct flights from Tanna to Santo. You have to connect in Efate, with two flights back to back. If the first flight is delayed, you may miss the second one, so leave some extra time between flights.
By boat
There are inter island ferries. Port Vila to Tanna takes around 15 hours and runs once a week. Port Vila to Santo used to take over 24 hours, but since February 2026, the MV Blue Wota (Aelan Express) does the crossing in 6 to 7 hours, twice a week. Worth considering if you have time and want to avoid flying.
Local buses
On the main islands, look for vehicles with a B on the number plate. Tell the driver where you’re going and they’ll tell you if they’re going that way. The fare is a flat 150 VT per trip. Cheap, easy, and the best way to get around locally.
💳 Tips Before You Go
Cash (Vanuatu Vatu) is essential. Cards are rarely accepted, and when they are, expect a 5% surcharge.
ATMs charge around €5 per withdrawal, so plan your cash in advance.
Bring USD or EUR to exchange if needed. You can exchange money at the airport.
SIM card is easy to get on arrival. Expect around 3,000 VT for 20GB.
Drone requires authorisation before departure. You cannot apply on arrival. There is also a fee of around €30, paid at the airport.
🎒 What to Pack
Portable battery is a must. Power cuts are common and charging isn’t always possible.
Torch is useful, especially if you visit Tanna volcano at night or need to move around your accommodation after dark.
Rain jacket is a good idea, even during the dry season.
Warm clothes and sportswear for Tanna are essential. The top of the volcano can be cold and very windy.
Wet wipes can come in handy, as showers aren’t always available, especially on Tanna.
🏝️ Port Vila · Efate · At Least 1 Day
The capital island and the easiest place to start your trip. It’s also where you’ll connect for flights to the other islands, so you’ll likely spend at least one night here.
Hideaway Island is a small island just off the coast, with good snorkelling and a short boat ride from Port Vila.
Blue Lagoon / Trous Bleus are freshwater blue holes that you can visit on a day trip from Port Vila.
Local market is a great place to eat. Lots of local food, very good and very cheap.
🌋 Tanna · At Least 2 Nights
Tanna is the reason many people come to Vanuatu: Mount Yasur volcano.
Where we stayed: Yasur Backpackers Bungalow & Tree House, right at the foot of the volcano. It’s a simple place, but the location is hard to beat. The taxi from the airport costs around 5,000 VT. There are no proper showers, just a basin, and the food is pretty much the same every day. But you stay with a local family, which makes it feel very authentic and immersive.
If you stay near the volcano, you’ll hear it rumbling regularly, day and night.
One of the most memorable experiences of my life.
Stay at least 2 nights. If the weather blocks the volcano on your first evening, you’ll have a second chance.
Mount Yasur
One of the most accessible active volcanoes in the world. You drive across an ash plain, then hike up to the crater rim and watch the volcano erupt in front of you.
Morning is the best time to go. You’ll have the crater almost entirely to yourself. The evening is also beautiful, with the sunset and the lava glow against the darkening sky, but it’s busier. If you have the time, both are worth doing.
Budget around €220 per person for 2 nights / 3 days, all in.
The volcano entry costs around 10,000 VT for the first visit and 5,000 VT for a second visit.
Kastom Village
A visit to a traditional village where you learn about the island’s customs, history, and cannibalistic past.
Blue Cave
A cave with an underwater opening that creates a bright blue glow inside.
Go at the right time of day. The light only comes through at certain hours, so ask your guide when to go for the best experience and photos.
🌊 Santo · Espiritu Santo · At Least 4 Days
The largest island in Vanuatu.
Lonnoc Beach
Quieter than Champagne Beach and just as beautiful. It’s right next door, and it’s free.
Where we stayed: Lonnoc Eco Beach Bungalows. Good value for money, with simple wooden bungalows right on the beach. There’s no hot water and no electricity in the bungalows, so you can only charge your devices at reception. The food is okay but quite expensive. We preferred the Bamboo Restaurant next door, which is well worth trying.
Lovely beach, although there are often quite a few fishermen in the water.
Getting from the airport: taxis will quote around 10,000 VT, but you can negotiate down to 5,000–6,000 VT.
Blue Holes
Three main blue holes on Santo, each with a different shade of turquoise.
Entrance is 1,000 VT per person at each blue hole.
1. Riri Blue Hole
The most beautiful one, in my opinion.
2. Matevulu Blue Hole
Bigger and surrounded by beautiful nature.
3. Nanda Blue Hole
Nice shade of blue, but not my favourite.
Champagne Beach
Beautiful beach with restaurants, toilets and showers. Entry is 1,000 VT per person. The facilities are a plus, but if you want a quieter beach without paying, Lonnoc is the better option.
Port Olry
A remote and beautiful bay in the north of Santo, with very few people around.
For lunch, eat at Chez Louis, right on the beach.
Luganville
There’s not much to do in Luganville, but it’s a good place to spend a rainy day.
You can visit the local market, browse a few souvenir shops, and try local specialities like laplap from small local vendors.
There’s also a free museum, with donations welcome.
SS President Coolidge Wreck Dive
We didn’t dive it ourselves, but I had to mention it: the SS President Coolidge is considered one of the best wreck dives in the world. This luxury liner turned troop transport sank in 1942 after hitting a friendly mine. Divers can go down to 70 metres, passing military vehicles, the engine room and the famous mosaic known as “The Lady.”
Nearby, Million Dollar Point is where the US army dumped its equipment at the end of the war. Jeeps, tanks and cannons are still scattered in the shallow water.
Honest Take
Worth it:
- Mount Yasur: once-in-a-lifetime.
- Landscapes unlike anything else in the Pacific.
- Plenty to see and do across the three islands.
- Food is surprisingly good.
Less good:
- Air Vanuatu is unreliable: delays and cancellations are part of the trip
- Everything is expensive for what you get
- Comfort and service are basic
- ATM fees add up
- Weather is unpredictable, even in the dry season
Go with the right mindset: flexible, unhurried, and ready to improvise. Vanuatu isn’t the easiest destination, but that’s also part of what makes it special.
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