SRI LANKA
Sri Lanka had been on my travel wish list for years, so I arrived with high expectations and a lot of excitement. And to be fair, the country is undeniably beautiful. From lush tea plantations to wild coastlines, there are a lot of incredible places to explore.
That said, this ended up being one of my least favourite trips. Everything felt surprisingly expensive for what you got, and as two women travelling alone, we had a few uncomfortable encounters with men that sometimes left us feeling uneasy and unsafe. The food was also a disappointment for us, especially after spending years living and travelling around Asia.
What I will remember most, though, is the kindness of the Sri Lankan women we met along the way. They were warm, welcoming, and genuinely some of the nicest people I’ve come across.
Looking back, I think I would have enjoyed Sri Lanka more with a bigger budget, better accommodation, and a trusted guide. It’s one of those places where the way you travel can make a huge difference to your experience.
The route
What I did: Colombo → Sigiriya (2 nights) → Ella (2 nights) → Mirissa (4 nights) → Galle (2 nights) → Colombo
What I’d do instead: Colombo → Sigiriya (2 nights) → Ella (2 nights) → Yala or Udawalawe (1 night) → Mirissa (3 nights) → Galle (2 nights) → Colombo
Skip a day at Mirissa and spend a night near a national park instead. Choose Udawalawe for elephants, or Yala for elephants and a chance of spotting leopards. Book your safari in advance for much better chances of seeing wildlife.
Day 1 / Colombo to Sigiriya via Dambulla
We landed in Colombo, grabbed an e-SIM at the airport and took a taxi to Sigiriya, with a stop at Dambulla on the way.
The Dambulla Cave Temple is spectacular. It’s one of the best-preserved Buddhist sites in the world.
Sigiriya is a charming little town with plenty of small restaurants. Food was fine but nothing exciting, which became a recurring theme.
Day 2 / Sunrise hike, then a disappointing safari
We woke up early to catch the sunrise from Pidurangala Rock, the hill directly facing the famous Lion Rock. The view is incredible and absolutely worth the early alarm.
In the afternoon our guesthouse host suggested a last-minute elephant safari. We went, barely saw any elephants, and paid a lot for it. Skip any improvised outing like this. If elephants are on your list, book in advance at a park that actually guarantees sightings. Udawalawe National Park is your safest bet year-round.
Day 3 / Local bus to Kandy, then the train to Ella
We took the local bus to Kandy. Chaotic, fast, doors wide open, music blasting. Genuinely fun.
From Kandy, we boarded the famous train to Ella. One of the most scenic rail journeys in the world: rolling tea plantations, misty mountains, open doors. The ride takes around 6 to 7 hours so it can feel long towards the end. We booked our seats directly at the station without any problem, but booking in advance is probably safer.
Day 4 / Nine Arch Bridge and Little Adam’s Peak
Ella is a breath of fresh air. Better food, better energy.
The Nine Arch Bridge is an iconic viaduct above the jungle floor, surrounded by tea fields.
From there we hiked up to Little Adam’s Peak, about two hours round trip through tea plantations with panoramic views over the Ella valley. Easy enough for any fitness level.
Afternoon was a gentle wander around town.
Day 5 / Lipton’s Seat, then Mirissa
Lipton’s Seat is one of the most beautiful places I visited in Sri Lanka. 100% recommend. This viewpoint sits in the middle of the Dambatenne tea estate, where Sir Thomas Lipton used to survey his empire.
Afterwards we took a taxi to Mirissa. Yes, taxis are very expensive in Sri Lanka but we were too tired for the bus.
Arrived in time for the sunset at Coconut Tree Hill. A small hill with palm trees overlooking the ocean, one of the most photogenic spots in Sri Lanka.
Day 6 / Scooter day in Mirissa
We got brunch at Shady Lane. First time in my life I didn’t enjoy brunch. The place is cute though, and they sell great T-shirts.
We rented scooters and headed to Secret Beach, genuinely beautiful, with a beach bar and sunbeds to settle into. Caught the sunset at Mirissa Beach. A good day overall.
Day 7 / Beach club day
A full lazy day at a small beach club. Lovely spot, a little pricey for what it was. But sometimes that’s exactly what you need.
Day 8 / Weligama, skip it
We spent the day in Weligama. It’s a surf town: fine if you surf, not much to offer otherwise. The beach is nothing special. We wouldn’t go back.
Day 9 / Galle
We took the local bus from Mirissa, around 2 hours and very cheap. Galle surprised us in the best way. The fort area is full of life, great restaurants, cute streets to wander. Yes it’s on the pricier side, but the quality is there. Spent the day just exploring the city.
Day 10 / Scooter day around Galle
Rode out to the Japanese Peace Pagoda and Jungle Beach, both worth a visit.
We also stopped to see the famous stilt fishermen. Honest warning: it’s completely staged for tourists. You pay for the photo, they don’t actually fish. A bit of a letdown, but it’s one of those things you stop at anyway.
The highlight of the whole trip happened on this day. While riding around we ran into a local family who invited us to stop and offered us fresh fruit. The Sri Lankan women we met were genuinely exceptional. Our difficult encounters were always with men, and our warmest memories always with women.
Day 11 / Local market, then back to Colombo
A last wander through the local market before heading back to Colombo to catch our flight.
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